Building a Back-to-School Skincare Routine that Works for You

Written by Alexandra Embree

Thumbnail Photo by Christin Hume on Unsplash

Anxieties abound as many students gear up for their return to campus. Not only are there the usual school related worries – picking classes, majors, extracurriculars – but this time there are COVID-19 protocols to follow. Study spaces need to be booked in advance, masks worn in public spaces, and gathering limits are still being imposed, which means some classes are still online. After a lengthy and challenging adjustment to online classes, students now have to adjust again, this time in reverse.

Periods of change can wreak havoc on your stress levels, and stress can in turn wreak havoc on your skin. While the first line of defence against stress-induced skin problems should be stress management through habits like exercise, meditation, journaling, and a healthy diet, you can also engage in self-care by developing a soothing skincare routine.

Photo by Christin Hume on Unsplash

Many skin conditions are exacerbated by changes in climate and season. Students moving from a warm, dry climate may find that they experience breakouts, dryness, or flare-ups of existing conditions in Halifax, where the weather can be exceedingly humid or biting and cold. Friction from fabrics like masks can also contribute to breakouts and irritation, which has left many students facing the dreaded “maskne”. By understanding the building blocks of skincare, you’ll have tools at your disposal to help combat nearly any skin concern.

Before continuing, it’s important to note that persistent acne and other skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea can be worsened by attempts to self-diagnose and treat the condition. An excellent skincare routine without the proper medicinal treatments or medical guidance can be frustrating and ineffective. The information in this article does not constitute professional medical advice – if you are battling a skin condition that doesn’t respond to a simple skincare routine, reach out to a doctor for a referral to a dermatologist. Together, you can come up with a plan that is tailored to you.

It’s also important to note that you are not your skin, and your self worth shouldn’t be defined by the condition of your skin. Acne and other skin conditions can carry a heavy stigma and can garner shame, but the reality is that these conditions are largely genetic and out of your control. Skin is not meant to be perfectly smooth and poreless all the time like it may appear to be on Instagram and in advertisements; in truth, your skin faces a harsh outer world and protects your inner organs from germs and pathogens. So arm yourself with knowledge and practice consistency, but don’t get discouraged by “bad” skin days - it’s all part of human existence.

The Trio of Skincare

Skincare can be complicated. Influencers and celebrities frequently share 30-minute plus skincare routines that are confusing, expensive, and far too time-consuming for the average student. The infamous 10-step Korean beauty routine is nothing if not intimidating. With all the marketing that we are bombarded with 24/7, it can be hard to cut through the claims and find products that really work for you.

Since there are new skincare ingredients being discovered seemingly every other week, it’s best to start with and focus on the basics. That’s why in the following sections, I’ll cover what I see as the three main categories of a skincare routine – cleansers, moisturizers, and actives.

Cleansers

Cleansers have come a long way from their humble origins. Oil-based soaps were one of the first beauty products invented, and mass-produced bar soaps like Ivory soap, invented by P&G in 1878, are credited with beginning the marketing hype of skincare products. Unfortunately, it was quickly discovered that soap had a downside –  it resulted in dryness. While moisturizers can help to counteract this dryness, the key to a good facial cleanser is gentleness.  A harsh cleanser can damage the skin’s moisture barrier and invite more skin problems such as acne, infections, and dryness. The same effect can occur through over-washing – dermatologists actually recommend you only wash your face about once a day, twice if you have very oily skin (plus after any time you engage in vigorous physical activity). Look for non-foaming cleansers by dermatologist-recommended brands like Cetaphil, Spectro, and La-Roche Posay for an irritation-free cleanse.

If you wear makeup or sunscreen on a daily basis, a double cleanse can also be beneficial. A double cleanse consists of using an oil-based cleanser before your regular cleanser. Oil-based cleansers include micellar water, cleansing balm, cold cream, or cleansing oil. This first step melts any existing products on your face, breaking them up into little pieces that can easily be rinsed away in the second step with a gentle cleanser.

Photo by The Creative Exchange on Unsplash

Moisturizers

While adopting a gentle cleanser can do a lot to combat dryness in itself, it’s not always enough, particularly during Canadian winters when the cold brings humidity levels down to a moisture-sapping level. You can enhance your skin’s moisture barrier by applying moisturizers as you see fit. There are three main categories of moisturizing agents: occlusives, emollients, and humectants. Each moisturizing agent has different properties, and many moisturizers will combine these categories into a single product.

Occlusives

Occlusives are essentially the sealants of skincare. They lock moisture into the skin and block outside irritants from coming into contact. Occlusives can be extremely helpful in healing skin conditions such as eczema. The occlusive family of ingredients includes petroleum jelly (Vaseline), many oils, waxes such as beeswax and carnauba wax, shea butter, and silicones. Occlusives can cause breakouts if used on the face since they block everything, including pores.

Emollients

Emollients are skin soothers that help to restore the moisture barrier of the skin and reduce the unpleasant side effects of dryness like itching and tightness. Emollients fill the spaces between skin flakes with lipids that create an appearance and feeling of smoothness. They can be found in the form of cream, lotion, or ointment. 

Humectants

Humectants are lightweight products that draw moisture into the skin. A popular example is hyaluronic acid, which clings to water molecules. Some other humectants commonly found in skincare products are amino acids, aloe vera, ceramides, and glycerin.  Applying a product containing a humectant to the face draws moisture to the skin’s surface, which can result in a slight plumping effect.  

Actives

Actives are any other skincare product that you include in your routine to achieve a certain effect or goal. I’ll share some of the top ingredients to look out for below, organized by desired effect. It is important to note, however, that concentration and formulation matter when looking at potential products, so it’s best to do some due diligence before investing in any actives.

Pimple fighters

In this category, there are some incredibly strong medicinal ingredients. First off, there is benzoyl peroxide (BP).Typically found in washes and creams, BP is often a first line of defence against pimples, as it kills pimple-causing bacteria. BP can be drying and irritating, so it’s best to pair it with a moisturizing routine and use sparingly. The maximum concentration that can be purchased over-the-counter in Canada is 5%. For anything higher than that, a prescription is required.

Salicylic acid (SA) is another popular ingredient for combating acne, particularly blackheads. As it is partially oil-soluble, SA is able to clear out clogged pores quite effectively.

Finally, prescription retinoids are a strong active ingredient that may be recommended to you by a dermatologist. Retinoids increase the turnover of your skin and effectively help to prevent pore blockages. There are several types of retinoids available in Canada, but all require a prescription.

Inflammation fighters

For reducing redness and inflammation, look for ingredients like niacinamide, caffeine, chamomile, cucumber, and sulfur. Avoid over-exfoliation, harsh products, and sleeping with products on your face.

Brightness boosters

Chemical exfoliants can help you shed any layers of dead skin clinging to your face. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid are effective chemical exfoliants. It’s important not to overdo it with chemical exfoliants, however, as they can make you more vulnerable to the sun’s rays and irritate the skin.

Vitamin C is another popular ingredient for brightness. Vitamin C, typically found in serum form, can help prevent photo-aging, aka the development of sunspots from sun damage. It can help clear up hyper-pigmentation, which is any discoloration from a former infection (think lingering red spots from healed pimples).

Anti-aging ingredients

Finally, there is the controversial topic of anti-aging skincare. Most students aren’t too concerned about aging yet, which is by all means not a problem. The expectation for people, particularly women, to look “youthful” into their forties and fifties is damaging. That being said, I include it only because there is one product that is incredibly effective at preventing signs of aging on the skin, and all people can benefit from using it from a young age. This product is sunscreen, in either chemical or mineral form. Sunscreen is incredibly effective at preventing signs of aging and has the added benefit of helping to prevent skin cancers as well. Dermatologists recommend applying sunscreen to the face daily, even in the winter.

As for other anti-aging ingredients, only one has adequate scientific research to back it up, and that is tretinoin, a topical retinoid. Tretinoin also has anti-acne properties, so if you have adult acne and are concerned about signs of aging on the skin, this is a product to consider asking a dermatologist about. 

Putting it All Together

The strength of the moisturizer and cleanser that you use in your skincare routine depend on what actives you deem necessary. Stronger actives tend to require gentler cleansers and stronger moisturizers, as well as dedicated SPF. Other considerations you should take into account while building a personal routine include the order of actives (if you are using multiple), which products to apply in the AM and in the PM, and any personal ingredient sensitivities. A dermatologist or licensed esthetician can be invaluable in helping you work out the specifics of your skincare routine, but for free online information, educational skincare influencers like Dr.Dray, a board certified dermatologist, can also provide valuable scientific information about specific issues.