Written by Daniel MacGregor

Thumbnail and Banner Photo by Daniel MacGregor

Islands are all around us, but often they are relegated to our periphery; however, islands play vital roles in both our past and our present. Last year, I reported on Georges Island, the fortified military base turned tourist attraction and snake reserve. However, if you have ever stared at the small island from the Halifax waterfront you may have noticed a solitary lighthouse on a long sandbar which leads to the forest in the middle of the Halifax Harbour, well past Georges Island. This landscape in the distance is McNabs Island, and it was my next destination.

Getting to McNabs Island is slightly easier than getting to Georges Island. If you have your own boat, kayak, or flat piece of wood, you can dock at the public dock at Garrison Wharf or upon the beach. However, if like me, you don't own a boat, there are various companies providing ferry services, such as Murphys-Ambassatours, Taylor Made Tours, A&M Sea Charters, and Northwest Arm Boat Tour. Some of these services are based out of Fisherman's Cove in Eastern Passage, while services like Murphy's, operate out of Cable Wharf on the Halifax Waterfront.

For travel reasons, and since I live on the peninsula, I purchased a ticket with Murphy's. So on a clear sunny Saturday morning, I waited to board the Ocean Belle at Cable Wharf. The boat was a flat open-concept vessel with the captain's seat in the centre with a series of leather seats built into the sides of the ship. For roughly half an hour, I and ten others leisurely sailed across the Halifax Harbour, past Point Pleasant, and past Georges Island. At the same time, the pilot of Ocean Belle recounted his adventures and facts about the harbour (such as there being 15 islands in total).

Once we neared the island, we were given a short introduction to McNabs. We were told that the critical takeaway was that people used to live there, and now it was a provincial park where much of the human constructs were not restored (as opposed to the Georges Island experience). Since our boat was returning at 1:30, there was only a limited amount of time to explore the island. Therefore, we had two options, go left towards Fort Ives or go right towards Fort McNabs, once we were deposited on Garrison Wharf.

Taking the right route, what becomes quickly apparent is that despite the island's former settled history, nature has made a full comeback. The trails are largely lightly grass-covered, but as my mucked-covered Converse can attest, I recommend bringing boots (and while circumnavigating mud-covered paths, there were also plenty of signs warning about poison ivy). Aside from regular signposts with a map of the island, lavatories, and park benches, what will face the average visitor, as opposed to downtown Halifax, is the dominant place of nature. Flowers of yellow, white, purple, and pink abounded along the trails, with a honeybee in every bloom supported by a fleet of bumblebees and butterflies. Though there is always the risk of walking face first into a spider web, sometimes occupied.

The trail south led past McNabs Pond, a large inland body of water filled with resting seagulls. A short trip through the forested trails south brought me to yet another fork in the road. Going right yet again brought me to the open gates of what was once Fort McNab. The first building was a hollowed-out brick structure that I quickly dived into as the door was wide open. After being monetarily confused that that was it, I trekked a little further to be met by the imposing walls of the fort proper. Climbing slightly crumbled steps led to a lookout and a side path. The side path led to another open door, a maze of steps through the chipped paint walls of the now-empty military complex. Returning to the lookout, under constant threat of Barn Swallow barrage (an endangered species, so make sure not to disturb them if you visit the island), the eye is shown a beautiful view of the mouth of Halifax Harbour.

Backtracking and taking the left path, it was a downhill path leading to an expansive sandy beach, looking out over Lawlor Island, with a small armada of sail ships within Wreck Cove. Just as I walked onto the beach (shoes quickly filling up with sand), the McNabs Island Ferry, another company offering trips to the island, rolled up to the beach, dropping off another batch of visitors. Back into the woods, the whole beach affair was being observed by what were probably several baby eagles from a nest built into an old power pole. As a PSA, there are many rules for visiting the island, so make sure to read up on those, and I recommend wearing long pants, no sandals, and a hat, as only my jeans prevented a massive tick from having a free meal.

Making my way back to Garrison Wharf, I took a detour down the heavily grassed Cliff Trail, only being startled by crows once. This trail leads to a rocky beach providing another perspective of the view of the Halifax mainland. After bushwhacking through the Cliff Trail and back to the wharf, there was enough time to leave towards Fort Ives briefly. What was discovered from this brief expedition was the old tea house and English garden (with remnants such as a Japanese Maple Tree and a Horse Chestnut Tree), and further in the ruins of a bottling plant and the frame of an old transport vehicle. The tea house was where I also ran into one of The Friends of McNab's Island Society volunteers. It was from this volunteer that I learned about the contents of the English Garden, the bottling plant, and some of the tasks carried out by the society, such as a clean-up at the ThrumCap by the island interpreters. The society maintains, cleans, and interprets the island. Its website is an excellent source for the history of the island, countless pictures from its gallery, and information on visiting McNabs Island.

Needless to say, what I was able to see and report on is just a fraction of what McNabs Island has to offer. Moreover, it serves as an example of the importance of islands within Halifax Harbour to the region's history and present. Though if you plan on visiting the island, make sure to be respectful and cause no damage.

From Pleasure Ground to Provincial Park: A Journey to McNabs Island

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